Two Days Exploring Madrid, Spain With Young Kids
Madrid holds a special place in my heart. I spent a year there studying as an undergraduate. I quickly fell in love with the city, learned her winding streets, met each morning with a delicious café con leche, ate tapas offered throughout its unique bars and restaurants, learned Spanish, and discovered the work of the many artists who called Madrid home. In my mind, I decided to never leave, but my year quickly came to an end and I returned to the United States.
My love continues for Madrid, and Spain in general. When the opportunity arose to go with my family, I started planning away. Our first stop was Madrid. We had 2 days in Madrid. I wanted to show our kids the sights, the history, the art, and the food.
When our trip finally started, we arrived to Madrid in the late morning. My plans for the day were grand, as I proudly announced that I knew the city like the back of my hand–or so I thought. Actually, I had forgotten how to get anywhere. All of my memories of the winding streets and my ability to navigate the metro system had dissolved. I immediately got my family lost after checking into the hotel and heading to see the Palacio Real.
For a moment, sadness washed over me, as realized that in the city I had come to love so much, I had also forgotten so much. But the moment was short lived as I considered all the new memories we would make as a family. With GPS and a good, old-fashioned map in hand, we headed out to show the kids an amazing city and to re-acquaint myself with a city that gave me so much.
Day One
Palacio Real
Arriving on the red-eye at around 10:00 am, we promptly dropped our bags at our hotel and made our way out the door for a visit to Palacio Real (The Royal Palace). The visit is easy, with the palace welcoming guests by a grand staircase up to the main floors. The rooms are ornate and plenty and the kids were dumbstruck by the sheer size of the palace. However, a visit to the Palacio Royal in the summer means lots of tourists. Navigate all the palace’s rooms can be a bit hectic among the foot traffic. Make sure to buy tickets in advance.
You can also add a ticket to the Royal Kitchen, which we did not do. If you want to go in a smaller group or get more background on the history of the royal family, you could book a private tour. Truthfully, a bit of reading in advance and going on your own makes for a more spontaneous and kid-friendly experience. Make sure not to miss the royal armory during the visit. It is one of the largest armor collection in Spain.
Plaza Mayor
The Plaza Mayor is a large, typically European plaza. It’s filled with pigeons, tourists, and sidewalk cafes. About a ten minute walk from the Palacio Real, it’s also a perfect spot to take the kids to let off steam and grab lunch. We ate at a canopied table at Mercado de San Miguel, and had a pleasant and serviceable meal. After filling our tanks and the kids chasing some pigeons, we walked back to the hotel for a proper Spanish siesta. Taking frequent breaks with the kids is always a good idea; doing so on the afternoon after a transatlantic flight might be a sacrament.
Retiro Park
After our traditional Spanish Siesta (woohoo! that was good), we spent the evening walking through the Retiro Park before a late dinner of tapas. After entering the 125-hectacre park, located in the heart of Madrid, we bought the kids an ice-cream from one of the many vendors dotted throughout the park. As we strolled through, we came right up to the lake in the park’s center.
Our kids quickly discovered that dropping a piece of ice-cream cone into the lake will attract hundreds of fish all vying for the small crumb dropped their way. Also discoverig the plentitude of ducks floating by, they realized they had a menagerie to feed. The Retiro instantly became one of their favorite places.
We rented a boat and all the kids plus dad went for a paddle around the lake. It was a great way to spend the hot, early, evening before dining out at a reasonable hour in Spain. After the boat ride, we strolled a bit longer stopping at the Crystal Palace before heading out. The Retiro quickly became a favorite and we headed back on during our two days in Madrid for a stroll and to feed the ducks.
Day Two
Prado Museum
The Prado is widely considered one of the best art museums in the world. I’ll strongly recommend that you buy tickets in advance, on the Prado website. Schedule for morning open. The lines are minimal and the crowds are small. We strolled straight into the usually-mobbed Goya exhibit and found that we were the only ones there.
It was a memorable and intimate moment to gives the kids a crash course on Goya and what his art represented. From Goya, we moved on to Valsqeuz and Greco, and then the Dutch and Flemish Masters. You can get a reasonable kid-appropriate overview of the works above in approximately 3 hours, getting you out for well-earned lunch. If you are on a budget, you can go to the Prado for free from 6:00PM-10:00PM Monday-Saturday and 5:00PM-7:00PM on Sundays.
Madrid has two other excellent and impressive museums, The Reina Sofia and Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum. In general, we try to be cognizant that younger kids can get overloaded with too many museums, and try to hone in on just a few for each city. Note that the Thyssen has masterpieces by van Eyck, Van Gogh, Rubens, Caravaggio, among others; while Reina Sofia has the iconic Picasso piece Guernica.
Archeological Museum
We did choose to go to the Archeological Museum, a museum dedicated to the cultures that inhabited the Iberian Peninsula at different times in history. It’s a very large and detailed museum. The kids started with interest, but quickly lost interest as there was so much to take in and most exhibits were artifacts neither interactive nor immersive. Unless you or your family has a focused interest on archeology, you may consider whether the time would be better spent.
Where to eat
To really experience Madrid food, take the time to go tapas hoping. Tapas are small, savory, bite size snacks that can be shared among friends and family. While the Spanish eat these are bar snacks, they are a natural way to put together fun, varied, and informal meals for kids. Another advantage is that tapas bars are usually open in the early evening, while formal dining for dinner generally doesn’t start until 10:00 pm or so. Here are a few that were good experiences with our kids:
Fatigas del Querer
Located in Las Letras neighborhood, this tapas bar welcomes guests with an ornate front entrance. Friendly staff and wonderful atmosphere. We ordered a bunch of tapas including grilled seafood, chicken, chorizo, Jamon Iberico, manchego, patatas bravas and much more. The food was delicious and the wait was short. Highly recommend if you are traveling with kids as there are many options for them and it is a loud, fun location.
Casa Lucas
Although a tiny space, especially for a family of five, the service, food and wines by the glass were wonderful. We all shared some creative small plates as well as diving into their tapas offerings. They were very accommodating with our children and recommended fantastic wine tastings for the parents. If you plan to bring kids, make sure to book ahead to secure a table or else your kids will have standing room only. Located in La Latina Neighborhood near Plaza Mayor.
La Lateral
We dined here twice, outdoors with our kids. There was something for everyone to enjoy and the kids loved the different pinchos. They were able to to explore more than one offering and loved the al fresco dining while watching the flow of people throughout the Plaza Santa Ana. Service was attentive and friendly and prices were very reasonable.
Rafa
After a long evening of the kids playing and exploring the Retiro, we walked through the Salaanca neighborhood, looking for a place to eat. In August, we found a large number of recommended restaurants closed for holiday.
As it got later, the kid got hungrier, and we got crankier, we came across a restaurant with a welcoming sidewalk terrace. We asked if a table was available and were seated with a smile. A team of smiling, Old World waiters in white tuxedo jackets fawned over our kids as they told us of the day’s specials. The restaurant specializes in top quality seafood. It ended up being a crazy splurge. But also one of our most memorable meals.
We ate our way through some of the best seafood of the Iberian peninsula. Red Prawns are also known as carabineros. They are immense in size, rich in flavor, and ruby red. I’d read about Goose Neck Barnacles, and this was my first time trying them.
The waiters patiently showed us all how to push the flesh of the barnacle through its shell and into our mouths. The Grilled Octopus was larger than I have seen and perfectly tender. We were transported into 1950s service, up to the moment we were presented with finger bowls. The kids thought this was a course of lemon soup, until we showed them how they’re used.
Rafa is a long and expensive meal. The younger ones won’t enjoy it. But for us, including our six-year old, eating top-quality seafood on immaculate tablecloths, being doted upon by tuxedo-clad waiters, and sitting under the warm summer sky was a great night.
Where to Stay
Traveling to Europe with a family of five can be a bit tricky as most hotels only accommodate 2 adults per room. So, unless you are staying in an Airbnb, most families will have to get up to two rooms in most hotels.
I had originally booked in an apart-hotel. An apart-hotel is a mini apartment, but with the amenities of a hotel. They have a front desk for check-in/out, are willing to help with city plans and ideas, and most will include breakfast.
Two days before we were to leave, the apart-hotel emailed telling us there was a problem at the location, but would move us to their other location. The “other” location was not where we wanted to be, so we canceled and scrambled to find a new place. We managed to get a room with a connecting room at NH Madrid Suecia. The adjoining rooms were perfect for the five of us (breakfast was included). The hotel was walking distance to a great amount of the important cultural and historical sites Madrid has to offer.
Madrid is also an easy starting point for day trips to nearby smaller towns. We did do a trip to Toledo,Spain from Madrid. Woke up early, and grabbed a train from Atocha Train Station conveniently located in Central Madrid. I do recommend buying tickets ahead of time for this journey especially during peak travel times, like summer so you can guarantee your travel times. Especially return times. There were plenty of travelers stuck in Toledo trying to make their way back to Madrid, late afternoon, only to find they had to wait until late evening or even next morning.
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Sara Essop
I have to make a difficult choice – between Madrid and Toledo – as I won’t be able to do both. I will be travelling with my husband and two teenagers. Which one would you choose?
Five Family Adventurers
Hi Sara- This is a difficult choice indeed. Although Madrid is impressive, there is a charm to Toledo that Madrid can never replicate. The labyrinth like city and massive cathedral are awesome, the old Jewish quarter that lent so much to the towns culture, and of course the armory located in the old Alcazar may peak the interest of teenagers for sure. We loved getting totally lost in the town of Toledo. So although, I love Madrid, I think you would appreciate the medieval small town of Toledo and so would your kids. When are you going? Keep in mind if it is summer, you will be fighting off tourists (but we’ve all become a bit accustomed to this).
Sara Essop
Thanks. I’m planning to go in December. Hope it’s not too cold.
Five Family Adventurers
Depends on what your idea of cold is. It will be chilly, but where I live it gets cold so I’m used to it!
Lisa Manderino
I would love to visit Spain. I want to do a family vacation and hit the most kid friendly spots in Europe. I am going to wait until my youngest is 10. My husband can speak Spanish so we have always wanted to go!
Five Family Adventurers
Our youngest was 6 at the time, he had a blast. Yes it is helpful to have a Spanish speaker in the family for sure.
Pam
Looks like it was an amazing trip. I’m hoping to get my kids to Europe soon.
Lee Anne
What a lovely place. It is great that you got to enjoy it with your family this time around! I find myself wanting to go back to many of my pre-kid trips and showing them!!
Five Family Adventurers
It’s so fun, hopefully you will remember the little things better than I can.
Courtney
This sounds like a wonderful itinerary for a family when visiting Madrid. It seems like you got to experience many sites within that time period. Thanks for sharing!
Leeanne
I lived in Barcelona for a while so I am with you on a tapas meal. I love eating like this. Try this, try that. It’s the perfect meal for a kid. Kudos to you for finding a new hotel so close to your trip.
Five Family Adventurers
the hotel part was a bit stressful, but nothing that took away the pleasure of the trip.
Lori Nielsen
Madrid sounds like an enjoyable place to visit! I like some museums, but the kids get bored easily. They would love feeding the fish and ducks though!
Five Family Adventurers
Yes exposing to museums is important for kids, but knowing when to say it’s time to leave is also important.
Sheila Thomas
It is so neat to give kids the experience of travel and seeing unique things. We couldn’t afford it when my son was little and my parents couldn’t when I was little. But, now that I am all grown, I am making up for lost time with my travels.
Five Family Adventurers
We really work hard to budget these trips, like not going out to eat while at home and limiting the spending on stuff we really don’t need.
jen
looks like a perfect weekend to me!!!!
kmf
So awesome you spent a year in Madrid! I was there for only a week in May and would love to return for an extended period. And love that you could revisit and enjoy through the eyes of your children.
Tara
Wow! You’ve inspired me to take the kids to Madrid. We’ve visited Barcelona, but haven’t made it to Madrid yet and you made it look easy and really enjoyable! Thanks for breaking it down into days; very helpful when traveling with young children.
Five Family Adventurers
I hope to get my kids to Barcelona too.
Vessy Smith
I have been to quite a few countries in Europe but Spain is not one of them. This looks like a fantastic guide for 2 days. I am definitely saving your post to refer to again later. Looks beautiful! 🙂
Five Family Adventurers
Spain is really worth the visit.
Amanda
How great that you were able to take your family and create new memories. Looks like you had a wonderful time! I hope to get there one day.
Jennifer | Me and My Traveling Hat
Spain is one country I haven’t visited but really want to!
The food sounds amazing at both La Lateral and Rafa. It was great to hear about the service at Rafa not a lot of places like that anymore. Years ago I worked at a few places that offered that type of service with finger bowls to wash your fingers at the table, cute how your children thought it was lemon soup.
Missy
We have not been to Spain yet. My sister has and she loved the culture and people. We are looking forward to visiting.
Heather
We have been to Spain, Barcelona and Palma, but never Madrid. I would love to go. It looks like a lot to do and see.
Jay Hall
Madrid is definitely happening in the next few years. Not with kids. But definitely happening. Great summary.
Five Family Adventurers
Thank you, It is a great city both with and without the kids. Especially for late nights.
Lori
Looks like a great place for a family vacation
Five Family Adventurers
It is with so many options of art, history, beach, mountains and a great way to expose kids to a new culture.