La Malbaie, Canada
We planned a road-trip to Canada, as it was only a 10 hour drive up to Montreal from Baltimore, Maryland. The itinerary was Montreal, on to Quebec City, and then make our way back through New England. We asked a friend, who was born and raised in Montreal, for recommendations. He was not only gracious enough to give them, but also invited us to spend a couple of days at his home in La Malbaie. We mentioned the three kids in tow, and he replied by telling us we would all fit comfortably in the cottage on the property next to the main house.
La Malbaie, Canada is a town in the countryside of Charlevoix. It literally means “bad bay.” Charlevoix is a gorgeous provincial strip nestled between the Laurentian mountains and the St. Lawrence River. At that point east, the St. Lawrence is ten miles wide at the point where the town sits; the Laurentian mountains rise up behind it. A road wraps around mountains overlooking the river, on both sides of La Malbaie. It’s a little over a two hour drive from Quebec City.
Where to Stop on the Drive to La Malbaie from Quebec
Our first stop on our way to Charlevoix was to the Chutes Sainte-Anne to visit the falls. The entire circuit took 45 minutes consisting of pathways, stairs, and bridges above the falls. There were many areas to stop and snap a photo of the falls. The sounds of the gushing, falling waters drowned out most of all the other noise and gave us a sense of calm and relaxation. We strolled slowly taking in the scenery, making the most of our time. The kids enjoyed the hike and viewing the different levels of the falls. Seeing that the next one was bigger and more impressive than the previous fall.
As we continued the path, we came across a suspension bridge across a fall and a 50 foot gorge. Before crossing the bridge, right to the right of the bridge was a zip line crossing the gorge. There was a young man outfitting people who dared to zip across. However, in order to be outfitted, one must climb down onto a rock jutting out over the gorge, with a dropoff that would for sure do some serious harm if you made one false move. Our kids, ages 8 and 9 at the time, insisted that they get their adrenaline junkie fix on by zipping across the gorge. The gorge is 50 foot drop. Why not; most parents would say yes to this!
Along our drive we stopped in Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive for lunch and a visit to the Maritime Museum. The kids were able to explore schooners and tug boats and learn about the rich maritime history of the area. There is a sawmill as well with interactive kids activities to keep the young ones fully engaged. Right next to the museum was the Saint Lawrence River shoreline and it was low tide so the kids wanted to explore. I didn’t realize how soft the sand would be, almost the consistency of mud. So one child lost his shoe as his leg started disappearing in the sand. The other two were laughing, he was crying and my husband was not too pleased. Luckily, he had another pair of shoes, and they got to explore the shoreline of the Saint Lawrence River.
La Malbaie
By this time, it was late in the afternoon and we headed over to our friends home. They own a beautiful old house with a pool and a rustic guest house. The land has apple and pear trees and as we pulled in, we were welcomed our friends, their three daughters, daughters friends, and the mother of the woman that owned the home. It was a full house. Our kids jumped out of the car and headed straight for the pool. We brought the luggage to the guest house, dropped it off and enjoyed a tour of the house and property.
We opened a bottle of wine and started preparations for dinner. There were fresh veggies and fruits displayed on the table, hand made sauces, beautiful flower arrangements. It was a page out of Martha Stewart. The table was long and with rustic with beautiful centerpieces, set on an outdoor patio overlooking rolling hills down to the St. Lawrence River. Did I mention that the entire family spoke perfect French, even though they all grew up in the States (with the exception of the father)? It was a beautiful evening as we dined outside listening to the bugs and watching night take over what was left of a great day.
Spending the Day in La Malbaie, Canada
The next morning we were up early for a whale watching experience with Croisieres AML. They offer a zodiac boat or a boat cruise. We all wanted to do the zodiac, but there are age restrictions and our youngest was too young. He and my husband took the boat cruise. I went with the other two on the zodiac.
The advantage to the zodiac boats is smaller group sizes and faster to getting to the whales. You do have to wear a safety outfit and I strongly recommend glasses. They provide a captain and naturalist. We saw a bunch of humpback and some minke whales and the guide was quick to point out what to look out for and what we were looking at. Kids also loved the speed of the zodiac and the vistas of the shore line were amazing. The entire whale watching excursion was three and half hours.
We drove about another 30 minutes from the whale watch port to Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park. We took a nice relaxing hike at The Pointe-Noire Interpretation and Observation Centre and spent an hour or so looking out at the Saint Laurence while relaxing and enjoying the views.
After we drove to check out the Fairmont hotel in La Malbaie, ridiculously beautiful Chateau-styled hotel overlooking the Saint Lawrence River.
We parked and walked in to check it out. Our stop was the shop for Vergers Pedneault, which makes some of the best artisanal cider in Quebec. We stocked up on apple jams, cider vinegar, and elegant (grownup) ciders, including an amazing dessert cider. The Fairmont, which is one of the former Canadian National railroad palaces, boasts a golf course, tennis courts, pools and a spa, not to mention amazing restaurants. I wanted to check-in, but we already had a place to stay at a better price–free! At this point we drove back to our friends house to rest, let the kids play for a bit and help out for another amazing dinner out on the deck. We enjoyed a beautiful meal, drank wonderful wine and watched the night take over the Saint Lawrence River. It was a wonderful way to end our stay in Charlevoix.
Getting in our car to head back to the US, we took our hosts’ recommendation and stocked up on terrific pastries and great coffee at Pains d’Exclamation for the way home. Of course, until we stop at every Tim Horton’s en route, like moths to a flame.
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What a fun trip! I’d love to get up that way soon.
Very informative! Well done article
Looks like an awesome time! Definitely a stop I have to add when I make my way up there
Wow! This is absolutely amazing! Gorgeous! And it looks like such a great time!
What a lovely trip! I have not been to that area of Canada, but it sounds very idyllic. Glad you were able to go whale watching.
I can’t wait to go to CN but there is no way I could do that zip line! Way too high!
I live in DC; and this post is giving me serious motivation to get up to Canada!
I would love to see the whales! Looks like a blast!
What a beautiful waterfall!! I bet that is all you can hear when you are near it. I give you credit, my husband and boys would have wanted to zip line as well, but I would have died watching them on that ledge!
Love that you stocked up on terrific pastries. What was your favorite?
They were all my favorite 🙂
America is a new world for me as I haven’t been to the continent at all! Even if I am not familiar with the names, routes, roads, areas etc I enjoy reading posts like this! Your little ones are sooo cute!!
There is a lot of natural beauty in the USA and Canada. Hope you make it soon.
Well, that certainly sounds like a great vacation! Your kids are quite brave to zip across the gorge!! Thanks for sharing this article, would certainly come in handy the next time I visit Canada 🙂
I was transported to that deck and sooo loving it. La malbaie spinds divine! And PASTRIES!
Looks like a blast!
That area is such a joy to drive isn’t it? Didn’t make it to Le Malbaie though, which looks charming, and a great family-friendly destination.
So beautiful to drive and love the moose signs.
Waterfalls, zip lining, whale watching, meeting up with friends…that doesn’t at all sound like a bad day! =)
Since you put it that way. I guess not!!
How beautiful! I’ve been to Vancouver and Banff, but the Montreal/Quebec areas are on my bucket list. Canada has so many beautiful natural sites.
It is beautiful
Thanks for a window into a part of North America I have never explored. I like that La Malbaie and the area around it is off-the-beaten path and that there is such a big variety of things to see and do.
Your post brought back such lovely memories of a similar trip we took just a few months ago! This area is so beautiful and the local food products are fantastic, although your comment about Timmy’s made me laugh! Glad you guys got to spot some whales too 🙂
the zip line looks like so much fun! also what a luck to have an extra per of shoes lol! great trip and thank you for all the tips
I can see you had a wonderful trip to La Malbaie. Apart from the destination itself, the journey too looks really epic and enjoyable. The zip line and the gorge look like a spectacular experience. In short a complete family getaway with lots of fun and frolic.
Looks like you had an awesome time. Your kids surely enjoyed the ziplining. I could see that in the video. Its great to have such a helpful friend, brings out the best in us!
No matter the weather the kids will always love it!! great post. Corina @packedagain
This was super informational! I had never heard of this spot but it is now on my list to visit! Thanks for including that awesome video as well!
This is such a great adventure to have with a family. I’m super impressed by the amount of water coming down on the gorge. Canada is a very fascinating place I haven’t had the chance to visit yet.
Canada is really beautiful!
So how does your friend feel about total strangers from New Orleans coming up to visit and stay at his place? We would bring some good New Orleans food!
What a fun trip…the Chutes Sainte-Anne falls looks amazing! Sign me up for the zip lining across the gorge too! That looks awesome. I had no idea that you could see hump back whales around Malbaie too! Is there a good time of year to only visit to see the whales cause that would definitely be a bucket list highlight!
We went the end of August and saw the whales. Not sure about our friends, but we here in Baltimore spent time in Louisiana and have been working to perfect our gumbo. We would love some New Orleans food this way please 😁
haha, will remember that the next time I go visit my mom in Fairfax, Virginia! Though I may have to test your gumbo for poison like 35x….for the sake of the kids of course!
My roux is good and dark!!!!!😁
A beautiful part of Canada I am yet to see! Sounds like you had a fantastic trip. I too stop at Tim Hortons every chance I get… Tim Bits!
La Malbaie sounds like a fun place and your kids had the most awesome time there. Zip lining in deep 50 feet gorge for Kids would have been a bonus for them. The old house will garden all around amazing. Great pictures.
Malbaie – not a ‘bad bay’ at all by the sounds of it, ha! I love zip-lining and waterfalls – thanks for the recommendations 🙂
Loved the way you constructed 24 hours in and around La Malbaie. From the falls to a great lunch to being at the port! It was a packed day and seems like a lot of fun! We have not been to Canada as yet and would love the explore as much. Thank you for giving us great ideas!
Those are brave kids to be able to zipline. I would be way to afraid to do thst.
it looks like such a great place to go. I have yet to go to Canada and really want to visit. Looks like you had a fantastic time just in 24 hours! amazing!
Canada is so close to us that I always think about visiting. I’ll add to my list for when I do!
Canada reminds me to Justin Bieber ha ..ha.. My family love doing family travelling too, but not such adventourous as yours. You are lucky to have the great moments.
I can tell you we did not go for Justin Bieber! Ha.
Those trips with family are the best memories and leave fabulous impressions for everyone
I love these pictures. When you said you stopped for pastries and coffee I laughed. Universal pick me ups. 🙂
Pastries also silence the kids for a small amount of time!
This is a fantastic review. I’ve never heard of this place and it seems like a great place to explore. That waterfall is spectacular
Sounds like a fantastic and educational adventure you went on, quite a journey! Your photos are great!
Wow! it seems like you had a great time there 🙂 What a scenery and that waterfall looks simply amazing. Love greenery.
I dream of visiting Canada one day and my girls are similar age, so I would add these activities to our to do list! You are so lucky to live in this majestic country! Thank you for sharing your adventures!
It is a beautiful country. It’s natural beauty is outstanding. Lucky for us we are a road trip away from the East Coast USA, so there are more trips coming.
This sounds like such a fun trip! That waterfall is absolutely breathtaking and I can’t imagine how you must have felt when you saw it.