When we plan our vacations, my husband always wants mountains and I always want beach. This sometimes makes choosing a location difficult. Panama, however, was a great vacation location as it combined mountain adventures with beach paradise. Our family trip started out in the town of Boquete. This highland town is in the northern province of Chiriqui. The weather is constantly pleasant, never getting too hot, and the location, with its endless views of mountains, is beautiful.
Getting to Boquete is an easy flight from Panama City into the town of David and an hourās drive from there. The town itself is small, andāadmittedly–not very charming, but has plenty of places to eat and shop. We even found a couple of artisan markets selling goods and produce. That said, the surrounding area is breathtaking and the Caldera River that runs through the area adds the extra touch to its beauty.
We knew we wanted to do some tours and decided to use Boquete Outdoor Adventures (BOA) to help us plan, per the recommendation of the Inn where we were staying. Nicole, the office administrator, was attentive and helpful when crafting our adventure. We emailed back and forth for a couple of weeks while fine tuning the itinerary.
Coffee Plantation Tour and Tasting
Our tour started with a nice drive out of Boquete town into the surrounding mountains, to Don Pepe Coffee Plantation. Our guide, Ricardo, speaking in both English and Spanish, gave us a thorough introduction to the area as well as some history into the plantation we were going to visit. He described some of the coffee varietals we would be tasting, where they are sold, and the quality of the coffee.
We were ushered into a stylish tasting room, complete with a professional espresso machine and a massive roaster contained in a separate sealed off room with full length glass windows. These windows looked out over the coffee fields in the valley below. Ricardo started by introducing us to the different bean varietals grown on the plantation. Each group on the trip, had their own coffee cups set up on a counter. The coffee mugs were filled with beans to smell and inspect. Thatās how we started our coffee plantation tasting. Ricardo went into full detail about their market value, and the global markets that prize each of them. One varietal in particular, the Geisha bean, is sold predominantly to the Asian market. The Japanese, in particular, sell this coffee at a rather high priceāup to $60 a cup in coffee shops. We, however, got a cup for free. You can also find Geisha coffee sold locally in coffee shops in Boquete, at a fraction of its cost in the US.
We went from smelling the beans whole to then smelling them ground. Once the beans were ground, we could really start distinguishing the smells coming from the varietals. Ricardo brewed each coffee while explaining the proper techniques of coffee cupping, tasting. After brewing, we took time to smell each varietal. We all described the unique smells of each individual coffee, even the kids described the smells they got. All of us were excited to identify everything from chocolate notes to caramel, to floral, and nutty.
Having taken in the aromas, we then took spoons and skimmed coffee off the top for our first taste. Taking a spoon helps aerate the coffee in order to enhance its taste. Each varietal was different; Geisha having the most intense, unique taste with intense floral notes. Our second favorite out of the seven we tried was the Pacamara with its rich, creamy chocolate notes. Being able to experiment with the taste and smells, while listening to our guide describe everything with so much passion and knowledge made the tour enriching and immersive even for our youngest.
After the tasting we were given a tour of the coffee plants and learned how the beans are harvested, as well as the proper time to harvest the beans. We learned how the climate plays an important factor in growth, and what conditions create the best beans. The mountainside we were on was ideal, surrounded by trees and with altitude and mountaintop creating a perfect microclimate. Our tour ended with a visit to the bean roasting and drying storage facility. It was massive, holding kilos of beans waiting for export.
White Water Rafting
The thought of white-water rafting makes me extremely nervous. Donāt get me wrong; I love adventure, but fast-moving water with massive boulders popping out and hidden tree roots is the kind of thing that keeps me up at night. The kids and my husband really wanted to do the water rafting in Boquete. Moreover, they wanted to do it during rainy season with swollen rivers filled with fast-moving water. I had planned to stay back but after Boquete Outdoor Adventures told me it wasnāt too bad and I would be ok, I decided I shouldnāt miss a day out with the family.
The drive was a bit longer to the river than I expected. In all, it was an hour and a half. Once we arrived, we were each given gear–helmet, oar, and life vest–and taken to our boat. Each boat had its own guide. Ours also had the owner of BOA, Jim, and a guide. My first glimpse of the river stopped me in my tracks. This was not a relaxed river. Actually, it was moving rather rapidly. I turned to Jim and said, āthis is not how you described it.ā With a huge grin, he said, āDonāt worry, itās splishy-splashy fun.ā There was no turning back for me–I was going white water rafting on more than just splishy-splashy fun river.
The boat guide, Teeny, gave a brief introduction, some safety rules, and instructions before hopping on the boat. This was nothing like I had experienced during our rafting in the United States. In the US, you must fill out multiple waivers, watch videos, listen to a professional, and practice before you can go out. Panama version was 5 minutes and youāre on your way.
The rapids, in my opinion, were terrifying. To me, they felt more like Class III and IV rapids than the actual Class II III. Although frightened, I felt reasonably secure with our guide guiding us while shouting out proper instructions. It was thrilling, scary, and an accomplishment.
The entire rafting experience was 3 Ā½ hours complete with a catered lunch break. During the rafting, there were moments of calm where we could all jump out of the raft and go for a swim. If asked if I would do it again, although perhaps with some serious hesitation. We definitely had an amazing family experience and, more importantly, made it out alive. Please note that my husbandās account of the rafting trip consisted of some moderate rapids, good guides, a pleasant lunch, and some fun planned dips in the water.
Hike to the Lost Waterfalls
The town of Boquete is surrounded by mountainous cloud forests, all lush with heavy foilage. Within many of the mountains are hidden waterfalls. We sought out these hidden waterfalls with the help of a guide. Our guide, Jaime, started our tour with a stop along the road to point out a smaller waterfall. He set up a telescope so we could see a nesting hummingbird. I have no idea how he saw it, I would have never noticed the nest, let alone the hummingbird.
The hike was not easy and started with a steep section uphill. To add to the intensity, as expected in a cloud forest during rainy season, was mud. Fortunately, we are all in decent shape, but the hike was still a bit of a challenge. Along the way, Jaime pointed out a lot of the flora and fauna and told us about his family history in the area. He was super-excited to share with us everything about what he loves about Boquete.
We walked along the narrow trails to two magnificent hidden waterfalls in the cloud forest. They were surrounded by lush foliage, perfect weather, and birds. It was picture-perfect, literally. The first fall we came across fee into a pool at the bottom of a steep, green gorge. We were able to get close. Our guide, Jaime, asked us if we wanted a swim in the pool at the base of the fall. It was way too cold for me, and the rocks were slippery. The second waterfall, which was a bit of a harder hike to get to, was visible from across another gorge. It was a tropical paradise that made an ideal backdrop for family photos.
The entire hike lasted about 2 Ā½ hours and although a bit difficult we loved seeing the hidden waterfalls within the cloud forests of Boquete.
Volcan BarĆŗ
Boquete, Panama is home to an inactive volcano that is the highest point in the country. On a good day, you can see both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans from the top. Itās one of the only places on earth where both can be seen from a single point simultaneously. We booked a tour to the top in hopes of catching a glimpse of both oceans as well as a perfect sunrise.
Our tour to Volcan BarĆŗ started at 3:45 am in a Nissan Patrol, outfitted with extra-large tires, an additional tire on the roof, and a snorkel. I canāt say it was the most comfortable ride, but one that would get us to the top of the volcano. The ride started out smooth enough, but once we made the turn into the Volcan BarĆŗ park, things started getting a bit bumpy. Our guide adjusted her tires, and we began the ascent. While in the beginning, there were some crevices and a few bumps in the road, it wasnāt too bad. However, the ride shortly became very bumpy and a bit scary. There were literally boulders in the road and massive crevices that when the car drove over them made it feel like we were going to flip on our side. Iām not sure how our guide took us over the road, but she drove through like it was no big deal.
We arrived at the top of the Volcano before sunset and parked. The weather was a shock. We started in short sleeves, in the temperate valley of Boquete. At the top, it was a frigid 37 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius), and I was not prepared. From where we parked, there was a short, but slightly difficult hike to a higher point on the mountain where the visibility to see both oceans was great. My husband and the boys put on their jackets and scrambled up the last section of the volcano-top. Note that this scramble is up steep rocks and with some precipitous drops. Itās not a good choice for younger kids, those with a fear of heights, or with physical limitations.
The summit was topped with a cross, featured even better views. At both our base camp and the summit, we had wide-open views of the Pacific. The Atlantic was a bit more elusive. Volcan Baru and the adjacent peaks were shrouded in some early morning clouds (ālenticularā clouds, we taught the kids). As the window would move these clouds across the mountains, we would catch a peek of the Atlantic, while taking in natureās breathtaking show. The clouds then enhanced a magnificent sunrise. While we took it all in, our guide set up breakfast for us. It was complete with hot chocolate and coffee to help warm us up, as well as pan dulce, a breakfast pastry. Sipping hot coffee and cocoa while on top of one of the worldās most unique places was a moment Iāll treasure.
Shortly after the sun rose, we hopped back in the 4×4 for our descent down the volcano. I thought going up was scary but coming down was even scarier. It felt as if at any moment the car would just tumble forward and flip all the way down the side of the mountain. It was not at all a comfortable ride, yet somehow our youngest managed to sleep right through it. And it was worth it.
Bird Watching
I love birdsāmaybe even a bit obsessed with them–so when I discovered that Boquete, Panama has some of the best bird watching, I knew I had to get out the binoculars. Boquete is indeed a birders paradise. Through many recommendations, I reached out to Jason Lara Tours to set up a bird-watching tour. He is a bird whisperer according to many, and indeed he really is. Jason is originally from Boquete, Panama and his love for the area shows from the minute he picked us up. He gave us his history with Boquete, his love of his familyās farm, and their coffee growing.
Our first stop was right outside of town, on the side of the road next to a cliff used for rock climbing. I was worried about the location because it didnāt seem like a great place for bird watching, but quickly discovered why he chose it. The abundance of birds and variety of species was amazing. Jason set up his telescope and found all types of birds for us to watch. We caught glimpses of tanagers, honeycreepers, and hummingbirds.
We moved on from the side of the road for a hike in the cloud forest. Our hike was easy and leisurely and provided a gorgeous backdrop for birdwatching. Jason told us about the area, pointed out birds, butterflies, and the local flora and fauna. Jason was a great conversationalist, kept the bird watching interesting while giving us habitat information on the species we were seeing. We saw warblers, trogons, flycatchers, and glass butterflies. Our kids were engaged and got good close-up views through the guideās telescope.
The last stop was at Finca Larida Inn. The Inn located in the mountains is a great place for bird watching. We started off by taking a break with a cup of locally brewed coffee and hot chocolate for the kids. Jason spotted some more birds, but by this time the kids were slightly birded out. However, Jason did mention that there are Orange-breasted Falcons near where he lives. He asked if we wanted to see. I immediately said yes, not giving anyone else the choice. It was almost as if Jason placed the falcons right at a picture-perfect spot. There were two falcons and close enough that we could see all details of the beautiful bird. The perfect way to end our visit.
Where to Stay
Coffee Estate Inn
Coffee Estate Inn was a great place to accommodate our family of five. The Inn is built on the side of a mountain with picturesque views of the valley below and the surrounding area. Itās about a 5-minute drive from the town of Boquete.
We had a 2-bedroom villa complete with a kitchenette, a small den, and a massive terrace furnished with chairs and a swing. I loved waking up to the view and listening to my surroundings while on the terrace swing drinking coffee. Brian, who owns the Inn with his Panamanian wife, is an ex-pat from the United States, was accommodating and super-helpful. He told us about the area, where to eat and how to get around. He helped make arrangements for cabs to pick us up, and when they didnāt show (and many times they didnāt), he would graciously give us a ride into town.
Breakfast was included every morning. The kids always chose the banana pancakes (they still talk about them), while I opted for eggs most mornings. Along with the breakfast was fresh-roasted coffee and tea. We did spend some nights eating in our villa at the Inn because we were just too tired to dress and go out. Brian assisted us with ordering delivery through Panamaās version of Uber Eats.
The beds were comfortable, and our villa was cleaned every day. I do recommend a stay here is you are planning to visit Boquete.
Where to Eat in Boquete, Panama
We love to eat like locals when we travel, and Boquete was no exception. It was easy to find local eats for a quick lunch, but dinner posed more of a challenge.
El Sabroson
Ricardo our first guide on our first day, told us to try El Sabroson, a typical Panamanian cafeteria-styled, quick service meal. He mentioned there were three El Sabroson locations, so our first day we ate at El Sabroson #1. I quickly learned that there are three standard comidas or meals to choose from. Once you chose, you can add proteins like meat, chicken, or fish to the dish. Comida 1 comes with white rice, minestrone soup, salad, and plantains. Comida 2 comes with rice and beans, salad, and plantains, and Comida 3 comes with combo rice or rice and chicken mix, salad, and plantains. Once you chose you can add chicken grilled or fried, braised meat referred to as Ropa Viejo (old clothes) in Panama, slow-roasted pork (pernil), or fish.
It is a cafeteria-style dining place, meaning all the food is in front of you lined up in front of you, you move your tray along the line, the servers scoop onto a plate which goes on your tray, and you carry the tray to a seat of your choosing. The food was tasty and filling and an easy go-to after touring. This is an all-around good choice: it showcases how Panamanians eat (and youāll eat with locals), itās quick (good with hungry kids), and itās inexpensive.
We did try El Sabroson #3 as well, same food, just different location. El Sabroson #3 had outdoor seating overlooking the main street of Boquete town which was a pleasant bonus.
RetroGusto
On our first night in Boquete, we went to RetroGusto, a restaurant, and bar located on the main street of Boquete. The restaurant is a farm-to-table serving Italian food which goes against our search for eating local food, but it was a great choice and the food was good. RetroGusto does use wood-fire pizza ovens to make their selections of good pizza. The dough is crunchy and mildly smokey while toppings were fresh.
The Rock
A couple of people recommended The Rock for some fine dining. We chose to eat there and thoroughly enjoyed the outdoor seating with a view of the surrounding area. The restaurant serves up international-style food, with some added Panamanian dishes like ceviche. The food was good, staff was pleasant, but were not blown away by the food. They did give us large marshmallows at the end for us to cook over a large fire pit. It was a nice treat and the kids loved it.
Donde Giselle
I loved Donde Giselle. The food, the atmosphere, and the service were all terrific. We ate on a very cute, enclosed patio that somehow managed to keep the noise from the street out. The food is well-executed and takes Panamanian staples to fine dining. It is more configured for tourists than locals, though. The menu features riffs on staples like sancocho, patacones, almojaranos, and tortillas. Portions are generous. The braised beef in the ropa vieja was tender full of flavor. This is a restaurant I would recommend for its Panamanian dishes yet more upscale eating than El Sabroso.